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A MINANGKABAU BOY
Hasril gave the ball
made of newspaper a good kick, sending it flying off the dirt road into the wet
mud of a freshly planted rice paddy. “Goal!” he cried to his friends, and ran
down the small, grassy path to his home.
“Hey, Ma! I’m home!”
Hasril shouted to his mother who was feeding the chickens behind the house.
Quickly, he removed his shoes and ran inside, throwing his backpack full of
books on the table. He was late coming home from school and his father had
already left for the rice paddy. If he was going to have any time with the
water buffalo, he would have to eat and finish his homework quickly.
The table was already
set for the afternoon meal. Hasril grabbed an empty plate and filled it with
rice from a large pot. He selected a piece of fish from one serving plate and
spoonful of kangkung from another. Using his hands, he hungrily shoveled the
spicy food into his mouth.
“I see you have found
your lunch, Hasril,” his mother laughed, coming in from the back with a basket
full of laundry. “Do your homework and then I have some food some food for you
to take your father in the field.” Hasril’s mother set down had followed her
inside out the door again.
Hasril is an 11 year old
Minangkabau boy. The Minang live in a mountainous region of
Hasril was anxious to
help his father in the family rice paddy. Unlike his brother Achmal, who was
studying to be a master wood carver in the nearby
“Bye, Ma!” Hasril
shouted, picking up the fried tapioca root his mother had carefully wrapped in
banana leaves and the pot of hot coffee for his father. Then down the road he
went, sometimes running, sometimes walking, his bare feet feeling each stone on
the rough, dirt road.
At the family’s rice
paddy, Hasril’s father had already started clearing out the rice plant roots to
prepare the field for planting. Rice grows like grass and the roots become
tangled in the wet mud that is left after the plants are cut. This work is done
with a water buffalo pulling a bajak which looks and works like a giant comb to
tug the stubborn roots loose from the soil.
“Hasril! How was school?
Here, you take over. After all, Rabu loves you best,” Hasril’s father said,
pulling the large water buffalo to a stop.
“Okay, Pak!” Hasril
answered, taking the reins from his father. Hasril felt proud and grown-up
standing behind this animal-five times size and many more times his weight.
Hasril moved his water
buffalo up and down the muddy rice paddy. Then at one turn, the water buffalo
slipped and fell on his side, plunging Hasril into the thick mud. The buffalo
struggled to get up, kicking his leg and moving his head and horns back and
forth to gather the momentum to haul his huge form from the sticky mud. Hasril didn’t dare let go of the buffalo, and
the bull’s strong movements threw him in
and out of the reins tightly to keep the scared bull from running away. In only
a moment, both were again going up and down the paddy as though nothing had
happened.
Father and son spent the
afternoon clearing the padi and as the sun was setting, they unhitched the
buffalo. Hasril climbed on the great bull and, holding onto Rabu’s back far
from the buffalo’s sharp horns, he rode all the way home.
The next morning was
Sunday, and Hasril’s family took the family bendi, a small brightly colored
horse-cart, into the town of
Bukittinggi, the center
of Minangkabau culture, is a small mountainous town surrounded by many villages
of kampungs like Hasril’s. Two of these villages are famous throughout the
world Pandai Sikat where amazing woodcarvers turn out intricate designs with
simple tools, and weavers create the elaborate traditional songket cloth of the
Minangkabau : cotton woven with spun silver. The other is the
But today, Hasril’s
family needed to buy a cangkul, a tool that looks like a hoe but functions as
shovel, rake, and spade. While his father bargained for the tool and his mother
bartered with another merchant for length of cloth, Hasrils wandered along the
nearby street.
Everywhere Hasril looked
he could see his proud Minangkabau heritage. The name Minangkabau means
“winning buffalo” and refers to the ancient story bout the beginning of the
Minang people. In the mid 1300’s, invaders from Java came to conquer the land. The
strongly outnumbered and out armed Minang thought of a clever plan to maintain
their independence without bloodshed.
As the story goes, the
chiefs of both sides decided to settle the dispute with a fight between two
water buffaloes. The Javanese produced a monster of creatures-the largest water
buffalo that they could find. The Minang brought to the contest a hungry,
half-starved nursing baby water buffalo with knives tied to his short horns.
Baby ran towards the Javanese prized buffalo to find milk and nuzzled his
adversary, wounding the huge beast with his sharp knives.
Out of their deep
respect for this animal, the Minangkabau build their roofs in a sloping U-shape
to represent the water buffalo’s horns. The market skyline where Hasril stood
was a maze of buffalo horn roofs in all directional. His own home in the
village had a metal roof in the traditional sloping U-shape.
“Time to go, Hasril. We
don’t want to miss the beginning,” Hasril’s father called to him as he emerged
from the store with his new cangkul.
How could he have
forgotten? Today his father had promised to take him the buffalo! Quickly, he
ran to catch up.
Hasril and his father went
by cart to the arena in the neighboring village.
By the time they
arrived, several hundred people had formed a large square with two water buffaloes
in opposite corners, held tightly by their owners. Hasril’s father swung Hasril
up on his. Shoulders and they watched as the water buffaloes came face to face
in the ring.
The rope that each owner
had wound securely around his arm was attached to the water buffalo through the
bull’s pierced nose. Water buffaloes do not naturally want to fight, so the
owners must make their bulls angry. First they cut the rope that goes through
the water buffalo’s nose. Then they spit on the rope remaining in their hands
while running around the bulls, yelling. This spitting in a way to control the
animal’s spirit and sure enough, within second, the water buffaloes charged at each
other. Then they drew back. More spitting and the bulls locked horns again.
Hasril and his father
were cheering. The crowd was roaring advice, hoping that their favorite buffalo
would win. Suddenly one water buffalo pulled away, stumbled back and charged
out of the ring, sending the on-lookers running in every direction. The bull
that remained within the square was the winner.
Hasril and his father
stayed to watch one more match. Then they followed the hundreds of people
heading home as they laughed and talked and played and argued about whose bull
was best.
Today on their return,
Hasril and his father came across a neighbor’s wedding ceremony. They
entertainment had started with a wonderful plate dance. Hasril and his father
stopped to watch the dancers in their traditional dress, including the women’s
sloping U-shaped hats. A dukun or magic man stood behind the dancers and kept
them from cutting their feet as they jumped and danced on sharp shards of glass
while twirling two plates in their hands.
Although Minang people
are strongly Moslem, they still believe in hidden spiritual forces. Hasril’s
life will always include these magical forces: special rites for the planting
of rice, for the carving of wood, for the weaving of cloth, for the ceremonial
dances.
Even in modern times,
the Minang people are tied to their adat, their customs, in ways that is
difficult for even other Indonesians to understand. From morning until night,
from birth until death, everything Hasril does must follow the adat, the
ancient customs that have made the Minang life strong from generation to
generation. According to Minang adat, Hasril’s mother is the owner of all
family goods and land, not his father adapt tells Hasril what to wear, whom he
should marry and how the girls will ask him, what foods are to be eaten and
when. It is a set of strong unwritten rules that cannot be broken.
But for now Hasril was
tired. He lay down on his rope bed with its kapok mattress and fell
asleep-happy with his independent Minang heritage, his home and many blessings,
happy for the strength to be a water buffalo boy.
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